FITTING A NEW KITCHEN – Finishing the project

Fitting the hob and sink unit is fairly straightforward, both come with clips that hold them down tightly to the worktop. Hobs usually have a thin foam or rubber seal around the edge and this is sufficient to keep any liquids out. Only you know whether you are competent enough to reconnect the hob to the electrical supply. I would recommend you use a qualified electrician who will use the correct size / type of cable and connect the hob correctly for safe use. With gas hobs you should use a Gas safe registered  plumber / engineer to connect the hob to the gas supply.

Before fitting the sink unit, if possible fit the tap(s) with two flexible water pipes to it, each around 30cm long (which will save a lot of time when reconnecting the pipework) and also run a bead of clear sealant approximately 6 – 8mm thick under the edge of the sink unit which should be more than adequate to keep out any liquid, then position the sink unit in place and tighten the clips until it is secure. Be careful not to over-tighten the clips as they tend to ping off and are difficult to refit. Remove any excess sealant from the outer edge of the sink unit. Now you can fit the waste pipework and finish plumbing in the water pipes to the tap. Now the plinths can be cut to length and fitted, they usually attach to the base unit legs via plastic clips that are fixed to the reverse side of the plinth. The cornice and pelmet can also be cut to length. Using a mitre saw power tool can give a very

Fixing blocks

good quality, clean cut and therefore a better finish, especially if any angled cuts are required. Don’t forget the goggles and face mask. You may want to wait before cutting the pelmet to length as any tiled walls could alter its required length. Both the cornice and pelmet can be fitted to the wall units using fixing blocks with of course the correct size screws. Wall unit lights can be fitted, but again you may wish to wait until any tiling has been completed.

So finally the drawers and doors can be fitted, drawers are relatively easy to assemble following the instructions. Attach one door at a time to the units, hinges are normally in two parts, one for the unit and one for the door. Fit the unit one(s) first so they are ready to accept the door. Now fit the other parts to the door.

Two part hinge

Handles both for the doors and drawers may require two fixing holes being drilled, there are dimple marks on the reverse of the doors to indicate where to drill the holes, these holes should be drilled as straight as possible and with the correct size drillbit to suit the fixing screws for the handles. When fitting the doors make sure the two parts of hinge mate together correctly otherwise it will be difficult to adjust the door. As you look at the hinge, the screw at the back holds the door in place, the other one enables you to adjust the door later for alignment. When all the doors are fitted they can be adjusted so gaps between them are even and all doors are level.

Chrome door handles

When finishing off the new kitchen its worth sealing any gaps at the back of the worktops with clear sealant so there is less risk of water damage before the wall(s) are tiled. Any small gaps between the kitchen units and the wall(s) can be filled using cuts of decorative clad end panel, doing this gives the kitchen a more professional finish. As shown in one of the images below I partly filled a gap between a washing machine and a wall using a piece of 75 x 15mm timber with cabinet magnets on the reverse for ease of removal, then simply tiled the timber using liquid nails as an adhesive, it was simple to do and  leaves a small gap for washing machine movement. The last job aside cleaning up and telling everyone how hard you have had to work like I do, is to blank any pre-drilled holes in the units with the plastic blanks / caps that come with the units.

Back to all DIY Tips